The only real advantage of cooking beans from scratch here is that you can season them yourself, which might be significant if you’re sensitive to salt. I’m relieved to say they’re right tins of fava from my local greengrocer turn Falkowitz and Zeidy’s recipes from two-day affairs to 10-minute ones, which is helpful at 8am. Sami Tamini and Tara Wigley note in Falastin that tinned beans also offer the cook “much more consistency”, as well as being a more practical breakfast option. Max Falkowitz prefaces his recipes for Serious Eats with the caveat that favas are “a royal pain” to cook and the liquid in the tins is “a great addition”. Many modern recipes prefer to use tinned beans, which can increasingly be found in larger supermarkets and areas with a significant ful-appreciating population. (That said, Anissa Helou’s recipe in her book Feast specifies larger beans, which, according to Jenny Linford’s book Pulse, is the Syrian preference, too, so if you can’t find small ones – and British-grown examples are readily available online – you’ll be in good company.) Egyptian food writer and author of Cairo Kitchen Suzanne Zeidy, meanwhile, notes the many superstitions attached to these beans and calls them “beans of the dead”. Food writer Clifford A Wright informs readers that “the only fava bean used for making the prepared dish known as fūl is the smaller, rounder one called fūl hammām (or bath fava) by the Egyptians”. And while they’re essentially “the same species as the fresh or frozen green broad beans more familiar in British cooking … fava beans are the fully mature dried fruit of smaller seeded varieties”. Ful, also spelled foul and fuul, is made with fava beans – which, according to Hodmedods, are “Britain’s original bean”.
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